Arequipeños!

Jess and I were recently in Arequipa, Peru and had a taste of life in this city made of white volcanic stone. We were enjoying a traditional Incan meal of seafood stew and became chatty with our waiter, Jose Luis. We didn´t think much of it until he found us on the street the next day. He was very friendly and, as we were on our way to the bus station to buy tickets, he even offered to go with us. However, we didn´t go in a taxi. Instead he offered to show us how to travel like real Arequipeños (people from Arequipa)--in colectivos. The colectivo buses are mini-vans with destinations scribbled on the windsheilds. They ply the streets as someone from inside shouts out a list of destinations and prices in rapid succession. If there are any takers it will stop. Taking the colectivo was our first introduction to life in Arequipa.

Later that evening we were invited to a party at Jose Luis´s house for his brother´s engagement and birthday. After a frightfully fast drive in his cousin´s car to an outer section of the city, we arrived and were introduced to his family. His mother, father, brothers, and lots of other family members were all in attendence and we were the conspicuous visitors. However, we were welcomed wholeheartedly. We were immediately seated and given a hearty meal of quinoa soup, duck, potatos, and coca cola. Afterwards the cocktails began with a mixture of strawberries, milk, and pisco (a local liquor made from grapes). This was a warm-up for the dancing and continued pisco consumption that would dominate the evening.

The tables were pushed to the wall and a pisco and sprite drink was served. Jose´s brother seemed to be a budding DJ and got the evening started by mixing some salsa and merengue music on his computer. Jose´s cousin asked me to dance and we were soon joined by the rest of the family. The dancing continued for hours and was interupted only for birthday cake and toasting to the birthday boy. As the evening progressed, Jose´s brother decided to put on some trance and other club music for the benefit of the Americans. Jess and I danced in the middle of the room with the brother and cousin to the cheers from the rest of the family. Then came more salsa and merengue. The party broke up around 2am and after thanking his family we were taken home tired and full of pisco and soda.

The next day we were off to Chile, where we spent a few days in an overcast surfing town called Iquique. As a day trip from here we went to Mamiña, whose only claim to fame are hot springs and mud springs, which is exactly what Jess was looking for. After covering ourselves in mud and baking in sun, we rinsed in a thermal pool and were ready for lunch. Fortunately, the one open restaurant in town, serving its one lunch dish, appropriately called "lunch" and one beverage (Sprite), deined to serve us after sitting at a table for not less than 30 minutes. No matter. Our next destination happened to be closed for siesta, so we had all the time we needed. After soaking for a few more post-siesta hours in a private thermal pool, we emerged and waited for our mini-bus. One hour later we were still waiting and starting to worry that we might not make it back that evening. This was the only bus of the day. However, there was nothing to do but keep waiting and the patience paid off. An hour and a half late, but very apologetic, our driver arrived. He had fallen asleep. After a speedy return trip (maybe too speedy) we arrived back in Iquique almost on time and totally cleansed.

We are writing this post from a little town called La Serena, not quite half-way down this long skinny country, but at least 24 hours from the northern border. Tomorrow we visit the penguin reserve before making our way south yet again. Stay tuned for penguin pictures and more updates!